Anyone into 3D printing?

From programming to electronics, then making robots & CNCs, then flying multirotors (drones), and now.... 3D Printing :D

For a long time I wanted to get a 3D Printer and now I finally did! yeey :)
I did a lot of reserch, and I got the Mendel90 kit because of so many good reviews, and the way it's built.
I got the printer kit a few weeks ago, and it took me 5 days to build it (after work mostly), and a few hours to figure out how to calibrate it. So it was difficult at the beginning, but now that I got it calibrated, and learned the basics, I am printing new things every day.

Here is something I made recently (downloaded the 3D files from Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90302)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiNzS2gddOE

Here is another cool maze: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201097
Attachment 123523

I also started to learn to use 3D design software (like Sketchup), and successfully went from the 3D design to the actually printed real thing, so that is very exciting when you can design something on the computer and make it real and hold it in your hand :)

So, anyone here got a 3D Printer? and what are you printing with it?

Not yet, but eventually when home printers can do tiny details as well or better than the current commercial printers I'll pick one up.

A guy I know has been selling HO scale models on Shapeways for a couple of years now. They're still a bit crude, but 3D printing can give us models of somewhat obscure prototypes that would never be commercially viable if produced using injection molded plastic where the dies can cost tens of thousands of dollars each.

One of Volkmar's projects I bought off Shapeways and have been working on:

Fort Wayne-Lima Interurban - carbody

My boss has one that he designed and built himself. The problem is finding a use for it. Ideally, we'd like to have something that we'd want to use frequently, and which could be readily built in this fashion. I work in the realm of fish, so plastic items are not a bad thing. We have yet to come up with something useful, though.

How about little suits filled with water so they can get about on dry land?
You could take your fish for walks.

I imagine it would be more fun than dragging a gasping fish around on a string.

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Originally Posted by Gruff

I imagine it would be more fun than dragging a gasping fish around on a string.

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Isn't that called fishing?

We one-upped a guy at one site I do work for off and on in St. Louis.

One programmer saw some weird polyester underwear from China on one of those... "Chinese Amazon" sites. He bought them and as expected they are nasty things, nobody would seriously wear that stuff. The fabric feels like it is woven from very fine fishing line and there isn't really any waistband or binding tape at the leg holes, just a sort of sharp edge.

But there's a really gullible manager over a clerical unit in the building. He styles himself as a technically literate person which in his case means he buys a lot of useless gadgetry (latest iPhone, those absurd electronic "fitness" bands, and other impractical consumer crap). He loves to wander the building poking his nose where it isn't wanted and showing off his laest toy.

When he came by a couple weeks ago when I was there we had "Chinese underwear boy" tell him that these spiffy drawers had been 3D printed. Of course he bought it hook, line, and sinker.

If only they were his size, we might have gotten him to take them home and wear them. Though I'm not sure that Pepto-pink is really his color.

3D printed fish excursion mobile.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...5h-V7U4TJcqv-c

The wheels turn little impellers to aerate the water. :)

This is just a mock up of course. The real thing would be transparent.

I am a little late to your party. But I just bought a cheap quadcopter to start messing around with before I go and buy an expensive one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


According to someone on youtube this one handles (at least control wise) the same as a DJI Phantom that I was looking at buying.

I am planning to 3D print a quadcopter, and I will use the Naze32 flight controller. I have not decided if I should design my own 3D quad to print, or download something from the internet. I really want something that can fold, and maybe something that has integrated gimbal for the GoPro camera.

1) The ad at the top of the page is for a Makerbot Replicator, a desktop 3D printer.
2) They now sell 3D printers at Sams Club. Wasn't sure what brand it was, so went to look it up, turns out it's the very same Makerbot that's being advertised at the top. Looks like they have 2, the mini is going for $1,200... the full sized one you'd have to contact the local club for a price.

Up until a little while ago, I've wondered what I do with one if I had one. I think though I'd probably make things to use to make other things. I'd probably churn out custom Lego pieces, model trucks, cars, trains, buildings. I also have a couple of concept ideas for an engine that I'd probably build as scaled versions just see if they are viable. Far easier and cheaper than getting a decent aluminum block milled.

-tg

My printer is Mendel90, and I got it for many reasons:

The Makerbot mini can only print 10.0 x 10.0 x 12.5 centimeters, and it costs between $1,200 and $1,400 (depending where you buy it from), and Makerbot Replicator 2X is 24.6 x 15.2 x 15.5 cm, and it costs $2,500 (but it's a dual extruder)

Mendel90 is a kit (so you have to build it yourself), it cost me $1,200, and the print size is 20 x 20 x 20 cm. I received my printer 4 days after I order it (and about 5 days to build it, mostly after work), and from what I read on the net (on one instance) it took 6 weeks for someone to receive their Makerbot.

Mendel90 is easily modifiable, but with Makerbot (and most other printers) you are stuck with what you get, some of them they even force you to buy their own spools of plastic that are double the price of regular spools.

I am not saying that my Mendel90 is the perfect 3D printer, but compared to others, I think it's one of the best out of the existing options (with similar price range)

I already printed a few things (a few parts per day), and I was surprized about the print quality. A lot of the components of the priter itself ARE 3D PRINTED :) if you take another look at the printer, all the components that are white are 3D printed... so the printer can print it's own parts :D so technically this printer should have the name "replicator".

Hmm. How long will it be that we can create self-replicating printers. The printer takes raw materials, creates the parts for itself and an assembly line, and the parts the printer spits out to create another printer and assembly line...

Self Replicating is probably many years down the road. I hear they are currently developing a printed car for the masses.

Printing in metal is possible these days though it costs a bundle. Some metals are more difficult than others.
There are several different technologies in the field, laser sintering is just one of them.

There was a story I read a few months back where someone is 3D printing a house... It's being built in section, since the custom (obviously) printer is only so big, and it's going to take several months (more than 2 years I think, less than 3, if I remember right), but it included a pool, cabana, the works.


-tg

Just to give you an idea on what is involved to 3D print something:

I bought for my son a train with tracks, after a few days he broke the tracks (cheap stuff), anyways... so I thought I would 3D print my own custom made train tracks.

First I designed a straight track in Sketchup, took me 10 to 15 minutes to make the design. From Sketchup, I then had to export an STL file, and from there, it goes to the slicer program that generate "G" code for the printer. I printed 4 pieces of those, each one is about 15 cm, each one takes about 50 minutes to print at the lowest resolution (the worst resolution, but fast), which actually prints really good... the reason why I made the track only 15 cm (the printer is supposed to print 20 cm square) is because the glass that prints on top is not perfectly straight, so when the printer prints close to the edges, the plastic does not stick to the glass, and it messes up the print

I tried the train on the track, and it runs perfectly... now I need it to actually make a turn, and keep running in circles...

So, I went back to Sketchup to design a round track. It took me a few hours to design it! I had to go through a few tutorials to learn how to do basic things (like rotating, making arrays, etc.). I startd by making a 360 degree track with radius of 30 cm, then I first divided the track into 8 pieces, measured the length, and one piece was about 24 cm, too big... divided again into 16 pieces now, and one piece is 12 cm, good... converted to G code, and finally started to print...

For some reason the printer got "de-calibrated", I spent another hour or so to get it to print properly, I also had to take appart the extruder to unclog it.
One piece takes 50 minutes to print. I printed 9 pieces so far... last piece I set it to print before I went to sleep.

So, over all, it's very time consuming, it's not as easy as it looks, but the results are very gratifying :)

Yeash, it's that initial CAD-like processing at the beginning that scares me the most. But most likely because I virtually have no experience with such things. I've used some modeling progams before working on model train layouts, but I'm usually plopping pieces down, adjusting slopes and marking table dimensions. Even then it's a task for me to get what I want out of it. If I had to design and draw something form complete scratch... I doubt I could do it.

-tg

Is the glass upside down?

When you print the track are you printing the rails in plastic, too? Most model trains need metal rails to pick up electricity to run unless they're battery powered.

Here's the interurban car I've been working on - everything shown was 3-D printed:

Attachment 123653

The pilot is brass - the way I understand it, Shapeways actually prints brass items in wax, then dips them in a ceramic compound that hardens into a mold which is heated so the wax melts and drains out. The wax is then replaced with molten brass producing the 3-D part.

I added a drive unit, but I'm not happy with the floor/frame. I'm going to have to add some lead weights to the frame to get the model to track well over very sharp streetcar curves. These weights will eventually warp the plastic so I will need to find an alternative like low-temperature alloy or pewter that I can make a new frame from. But for now I'll just use some lead sinkers or wheel weights.

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Originally Posted by techgnome

If I had to design and draw something form complete scratch... I doubt I could do it.

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There are lots of tutorials out there. I've used them to do a crude streetcar model and I'm getting better at it. The curved ends of a celestory roof are something I'm still having trouble with.

I worked for over a decade at Precision Cast Parts Corp in portland. The casting technique described is the "Lost Chinese wax casting" method. We used it for all our castings. You can get very precise clean product with it. For iron based alloys you need a first coating of a ceramic slurry that is usually an industry secret. This coating allows the finished surface to be smooth and free of defects.

Regarding SketchUp:

I have a long work history of using wireframe and Solidmodeling products.
I froze my SketchUp at version 8.0 where it was still owned by Google.
The current owner (Trimble) does not offer the fully free product anymore (As far as I know.)

SketchUp is by far the easiest Solidmodeler for beginners. It is also the most fun.
It has a very intuitive interface. Eight year old kids can start using it with very little instruction.

That said it has very little in the way of feedback prompts.
For instance you have to know that once you start to use a tool you can key in your dimensions.

For example: Click the rectangle surface icon. Click a point on the screen, drag, click an end point Then type in 12,12 <Enter> to define the X and Y size.
Start a line, select a direction and type in a distance. Hit <Enter> to define the line length.
Any closed loop of lines and arcs automatically form a surface. Grab the Push/Pull tool, click on a surface and drag then type in a distance <Enter> and the surface is extruded to the size you want. Welcome to 3D.

It does lack parametrics.
SketchUp is what the industry calls a dumb surface based solidmodeler.
You cannot change the size of the solid by entering new dimensions for existing features after they are created, however you can carve away or add geometry as needed.

One thing I will mention that is a pain for me (Coming from high end CAD) is that Arcs and Circles in SketchUp are not true curves.
They are groups of faceted lines.
You can control the granularity of the facets to some extent.

This can cause arc tangent issues if you are not careful.
This is normally not a problem if you are creating a visual image, but possibly an issue when generating 3D for Printing.

There was a ton of 3D party free tools before Trimble bought the product.
I do not know if they are still available.
Most notable among them for me was a free 3D fillet/Edge radius tool.

Sorry for being so long winded.
If anyone want some help with getting started I will create a new thread for that purpose.

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Originally Posted by szlamany

Is the glass upside down?

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The glass is higher in the center, it's not visible if you look at it, probably because it's about 0.1 mm, but that is enough for the plastic to not stick enough on the edges. If I turn the glass the other way, then it won't stick in the center...

I will get a dial gauge (like this one), and when I do, I will be able to tell exactly if the glass is not straight (and how much).
Right now I am doing the calibration by sliding a piece of paper between the glass and the extruder nozzle, and "feeling" the space in between by moving the paper back and forth, and I can tell how close the nozzle is to the glass by the friction of the paper in between the glass and the nozzle.

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Originally Posted by homer13j

When you print the track are you printing the rails in plastic, too? Most model trains need metal rails to pick up electricity to run unless they're battery powered.

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The train is battery powered, so the tracks (and rails) are plastic.

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Originally Posted by Gruff

One thing I will mention that is a pain for me (Coming from high end CAD) is that Arcs and Circles in SketchUp are not true curves.
They are groups of faceted lines.

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Yea, the default of a circle in SketchUp is 24 lines that make up the circle, and when I first made the circle with a radius of 30 cm, I got huge straight lines, then I found I can change the number of lines, by typing in right before you click to draw the circle. I ended up making a circle with 256 lines, and I expanded the circle to individual lines and I used those to make the sleeper bars.

I plan to design a few more tracks, for example intersecting tracks, so I can make a figure 8 track, or, a track rotating outwards. Then I will post the design on Thingiverse.

Another thing about SketchUp arcs and circles is the start point of the line facets.
This is controlled by where you click the end point that defines the radius after clicking the center point.

In the attached drawing you can see the red line which defines the X axis in world space versus the start point of the facets

Attachment 123669

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Originally Posted by Gruff

One thing I will mention that is a pain for me (Coming from high end CAD)

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I'm a low end cad, myself, but still enough of a cad to make a pun out of it.

I stay well away from anything like that design. I know I'm too bad at art to do that kind of thing. I'd be using designs made by other people. That's become less and less restrictive all the time, though. The proliferation of cheap 3D printers is resulting in a similar proliferation of designs. Eventually, as long as you can live within the restrictions of the materials available, you could print up everything in your house and the house itself.

True CAD has absolutely nothing to do with art and everything to do with engineering.
Your simply constructing geometry with real world dimensions.

IMHO Artists make the worst engineers.

Finally finished printed all the pieces. Takes about 50 minutes to print one piece, and I had to print 20 pieces to form the track.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xswPXzTx4n8

Nice, but if you really want to impress me print out a working track switch. ;)

That was exactly what I was thinking. I wouldn't have any interest in a train set that had no switches. It would be like a programming language without If statements or other branches: You wouldn't be able to do anything interesting.

sure... physical switches? push a lever kind of thing? or automated with a servo motor (or something like that?)

Start with just a lever then work your way up... Personally I use Tortoise stall-type switch motors. But I also use mass-produced Peco or Shinohara switches as well.

I designed and 3D Printed foldable landing gear for my Hexacopter. Took me a few hours to design it, and it takes 2 hours to print one leg (so 12 hours of 3D printing in total)

Attachment 123957

Attachment 123959

Attachment 123961

Just in case someone hasn't said it, but that's fracking awesome, CVMichael.

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Originally Posted by CVMichael

so 12 hours of 3D printing in total

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Since you're printing several identical parts at once it might be easier to print one as a master then use silicone to make a mold of it then cast as many as you need using plastic resin. The cast parts would be every bit as strong as the printed ones (if not stronger depending on the resin used) and you would save the wear and tear on your 3D printer.

Just a suggestion.

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Originally Posted by SJWhiteley

Just in case someone hasn't said it, but that's fracking awesome, CVMichael.

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Thank You :)

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Originally Posted by homer13j

Since you're printing several identical parts at once it might be easier to print one as a master then use silicone to make a mold of it then cast as many as you need using plastic resin.

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Yes, I thought of that, but the problem in my case is space (and money)... I am doing this in my living room, I don't have a house with basement, or garage, or backyard, etc... I don't have enough space for the things I want to do, and to add to that cans of resins and casts; it's too much (plus the smells of the chemichals). Here (in Canada, Toronto) housing is very expensive, one person cannot afford it. Even though I have above average sallary (as a Programmer Analyst), it's still not enough for me to get a house. If I was alone maybe I could, but I also support wife and son. Maybe in a few years things will get better for me financially, hopefully...

I like the Tupperware housing. Keeps the contents safe and secure and also provides a place to keep your leftovers and fly them to a friend.

So I guess you could call then flyovers?

Here is my newest creation :)

I took the design from here: http://multirotorpilotmag.com/fpvquad/
I spent many.... many hours modifying it, made it better, and stronger.

I also posted the design on Thigiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:748749

Attachment 125197

Attachment 125199

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Here (in Canada, Toronto) housing is very expensive, one person cannot afford it.

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Judging by your current efforts it wont be long before you 3D print your own House :)

Can you 3d print a 3d printer? If you did, would it take over the world?

Yes.... I've seen articles about this being done. And no, it won't. That's in a future upgrade.

-tg

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Originally Posted by NeedSomeAnswers

Judging by your current efforts it wont be long before you 3D print your own House :)

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That's a good idea, I will start working on it right away :D ;)

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Originally Posted by FunkyDexter

Can you 3d print a 3d printer? If you did, would it take over the world?

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I attached 2 pictures with my printer. Every part that is white color IS 3D Printed! so the printer can print some of it's own parts, but of course the majority of parts are impossible to print, like the metal bars (linear rails), threaded rods, bearings, motors, extruder head, cables & wires, belt, screws, the electronics, and power suppy. I can't imagine a time in the future when a 3D printer can print ALL the parts...

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Originally Posted by FunkyDexter

Can you 3d print a 3d printer? If you did, would it take over the world?

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The Krell once built such a machine... and it spelled their doom.

People helping people :p

http://rt.com/news/245857-girl-robohand-3d-printer/

Yea, that is very interesting... I would love to 3D print prosthetics.

Just yesterday I was showing some of the things I 3D printed to a coworker in my office, and she said she knows someone with dog that has a problem with one leg. So that would be relly cool to 3D print something that would help the dog walk better...

Print Orthotics - that's a way you can monetize this.

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Originally Posted by CVMichael

Yea, that is very interesting... I would love to 3D print prosthetics.

Just yesterday I was showing some of the things I 3D printed to a coworker in my office, and she said she knows someone with dog that has a problem with one leg. So that would be relly cool to 3D print something that would help the dog walk better...

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That's been done more than once:

http://digg.com/video/dog-can-run-ag...ed-prosthetics

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Originally Posted by TysonLPrice

That's been done more than once:

http://digg.com/video/dog-can-run-ag...ed-prosthetics

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ok... so this means I should not do it, because someone already has done it for some other dog?

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Originally Posted by CVMichael

ok... so this means I should not do it, because someone already has done it for some other dog?

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Turned that negative pretty fast...I meant no such thing :o

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Originally Posted by TysonLPrice

Turned that negative pretty fast...I meant no such thing :o

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Your right... sorry... I overreacted...

Wow - my little post got lost in that fray :)

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Originally Posted by szlamany

Wow - my little post got lost in that fray :)

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:) ... Orthotics ... I don't know.... I think that is difficult....3D printing with flixible plastic... I think that is better done with molds and such...

It's not flexible in use - it's simply adding "extra" millimeters of matter below your sole and the interior of your shoe. Trying to a achieve a more standard curve and rise and fall.

I spent some time a long time ago coding for a manufacturer of the various things that fill shipping containers - expanding foam, air - all that stuff. I thought at that time the fill-every gap foam material could be used for orthotics. They certainly are expensive enough when purchased from a professional.

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Originally Posted by CVMichael

:) ... Orthotics ... I don't know.... I think that is difficult....3D printing with flixible plastic... I think that is better done with molds and such...

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I wear a below the knee prosthetic. The last couple fittings they used a laser scan which was converted to a kind of CAD\CAM "drawing". That went to a mold. There was no laser printing, but the last one I was fitted for I insisted on the traditional casting.

I'm guessing that "drawing" could be used for 3D printing. I'll ask about next time I'm there.

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Originally Posted by szlamany

It's not flexible in use - it's simply adding "extra" millimeters of matter below your sole and the interior of your shoe. Trying to a achieve a more standard curve and rise and fall.

I spent some time a long time ago coding for a manufacturer of the various things that fill shipping containers - expanding foam, air - all that stuff. I thought at that time the fill-every gap foam material could be used for orthotics. They certainly are expensive enough when purchased from a professional.

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My last one was roughly $13,000.00. That was your basic flex foot which gives (the forward part meets the slope) when you walk down a slope (versus that herd rubber ones I got in the early eighties). So it is a basic working man's model. I don't know how much the top of the line ones are.

I just bought a 3D printer on amazon. HICTOP Prusa I3 It seems pretty similar to yours CV.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00

I am excited to build it and learn how they work in more detail. I am also excited to print some parts for my Arduino Bar project that I am still working on. Should be fun!

This is just a small part of the people can enjoy

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Originally Posted by dclamp

I just bought a 3D printer on amazon. HICTOP Prusa I3 It seems pretty similar to yours CV....

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Very nice dclamp! :)

Yes, it looks a lot like mine, and half the price :rolleyes: :mad: *jealous*

The print size also looks nice, but the dimensions are confusing... it says "Printing size: 270*200*170mm", but what is the print bed size? is it 270mm by 200mm, or 200mm by 170mm? the height does not matter that much... I very rarely need to print tall parts.

If it is 270 by 200, then it's nice! The print bed size is that matters the most. Mine is 200mm by 200mm...

Good thing that it's a heated bed, but only up to 70 degrees? weird... on my printer I take it to 80 degree to print PLA plastic, and I have to take it to 130 degree to print ABS plastic... I only tried one time to print in ABS, and it did not go well. It took a very long time to reach 130 degree (about 10 minutes), and when it started printing the temperature dropped to 116 degree, and this caused sections the plastic to un-stick from the bed, and it curled up a lot, messing up the print. I think the power supply I am using cannot give it enough power to maintain the 130 degree. So when I have more time I will modify the printer to attach a second power supply to power just the heated bed separately.

What software do you use to control the printer? and what software for slicer?

I use Pronterface to control the printer, Skeinforge for slicing the STLs, and "Sketchup make" to design 3D things.

By the way, check out my "Things" on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/CVMichael/designs (I designed a lot more things, but I did not post them anywhere...)

If you have problems when printing, you can ask me for advice :) I can't wait until you get it up and running, and share ideas, and things to 3D print :)

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Originally Posted by Gruff

True CAD has absolutely nothing to do with art and everything to do with engineering.
Your simply constructing geometry with real world dimensions.

IMHO Artists make the worst engineers.

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Full agreement.

In fact I'd go further and say that good CAD tools can make a decent engineer into someone who is able to represent the real world with some accuracy. This is not to say an "artist" of course, for that is very different.

With certain design tools, a competent designer can conjure up a 3D object that (with refinement and revision) can be used to shape a product's development without ever becoming physically tangible until the late stages. CAD is a miraculous technology. I would be completely screwed without Solidworks and Sketchup.



For what it's worth, I think artists have no place in designing products. Yeah they can draw stuff but it's the engineers who have to point out why you can't cost-effectively injection-mold a mathematically perfect 24-inch solid cube of thermoplastic, no matter how synergistically liberating it might be. One mention of draft angles and volumetric shrinkage the artiste has glazed over and ordered a skinny latte al fresco with a hashtag.

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Originally Posted by CVMichael

Very nice dclamp! :)

Yes, it looks a lot like mine, and half the price :rolleyes: :mad: *jealous*

The print size also looks nice, but the dimensions are confusing... it says "Printing size: 270*200*170mm", but what is the print bed size? is it 270mm by 200mm, or 200mm by 170mm? the height does not matter that much... I very rarely need to print tall parts.

If it is 270 by 200, then it's nice! The print bed size is that matters the most. Mine is 200mm by 200mm...

Good thing that it's a heated bed, but only up to 70 degrees? weird... on my printer I take it to 80 degree to print PLA plastic, and I have to take it to 130 degree to print ABS plastic... I only tried one time to print in ABS, and it did not go well. It took a very long time to reach 130 degree (about 10 minutes), and when it started printing the temperature dropped to 116 degree, and this caused sections the plastic to un-stick from the bed, and it curled up a lot, messing up the print. I think the power supply I am using cannot give it enough power to maintain the 130 degree. So when I have more time I will modify the printer to attach a second power supply to power just the heated bed separately.

What software do you use to control the printer? and what software for slicer?

I use Pronterface to control the printer, Skeinforge for slicing the STLs, and "Sketchup make" to design 3D things.

By the way, check out my "Things" on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/CVMichael/designs (I designed a lot more things, but I did not post them anywhere...)

If you have problems when printing, you can ask me for advice :) I can't wait until you get it up and running, and share ideas, and things to 3D print :)

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I use Sketchup as well for my 3D modeling so I am glad to hear that I can also use it to 3D print objects. I haven't used any other 3D printer software (slicers, etc) yet so I will take what you suggest, I know that it also ships with Cura (spelling?) which has mixed reviews.

Yeah I am not too sure about the dimensions, but it has great reviews online about the size and quality of the prints. Apparently the assembly instructions suck really bad but I look forward to the challenge.

I will check out your Things and post mine, although I am sure mine will be pretty useless to most people since they will be for my project, at least at first :D.

I will let you know how it goes for sure. I am sure I will need help at some point.

I built my 3D Printer. I haven't had a chance to print anything cool with it yet because of work. I don't want to leave it printing unsupervised (at least for the 1st big print).

I printed a little Nickle thing to test the accuracy. Pretty good.


http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4808.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4809.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4810.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4812.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4813.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4815.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4816.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4817.jpg

http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4845.jpg

NICE !!

Can't wait to see bigger prints. Try printing this maze: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201097 (don't waste your filament by putting too much infill, set the infill to 10 - 20%)

Can you also take a picture on the other side? (the side that was stuck to the print bed, so I can see the first layer print)