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Talking of 3D printed prosthetics, this might spur you all on to even greater things :)
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-34044453
I would love to know what sort of things you can 3D print with that model Dclamp, what materials does it let you use?Quote:
I just bought a 3D printer on amazon. HICTOP Prusa I3 It seems pretty similar to yours CV.
I would be very interested to hear your review after you have used it a few times as at that price i could be tempted to buy one for myself !!!
I was at the Makers Faire in Detroit a few weeks ago - you couldn't go anywhere without tripping over a 3D printer. The popular ones seemed to be the 'tripod' style printers rather than the 3 axis. There was one which was at least 10 feet high (had an example trash can and a chair).
One thing I noticed, though (as I really haven't been into it) is that the surfaces are rather rough, and low density plastic seems to be popular. Maybe that's the way it is, but I guess I was expecting a bit better quality in the end result, and something as a substitute for machined aluminum...maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?
for the entry-level typical consumer market, probably... for the level you're thinking, I'd imagine you'd have to go up to industrial level... with a much heavier cost.
-tg
I will be sure to keep you updated.
The documentation doesn't seem to be very consistent for this model, but it prints PLA and ABS for sure. I have read it supports HIPS, Wood, and Nylon. But I cannot confirm those.
I am still brand new to the 3D printing world. I am not sure what types of problems can arise if I try printing with an unsupported material. I do not want to ruin anything, at least not on my first week of having it.
I am actually having a problem with the extruder motor at the moment. I tried printing what CVMichael suggested and it would not extrude anything. It worked perfectly for my first print but not for this. The motor actually works but there is no signal coming out of the connector on the board. I am going to try and trouble shoot it more tonight or tomorrow when I get a chance.
I can review the assembly at least. It was relatively easy to assemble, I have a feeling everyone here would have a pretty easy time with a assembly. There are some steps that are vague or the picture is not really great quality so it is hard to tell what part they are telling you to add. Also, the Y axis base that I received was made of some type of metal and was very thin, the picture showed the base as thick piece of acrylic. So the screws that they provided were too long to secure the metal base down, since they provided screw lengths for the acrylic. I had to use some spare washer to make sure it was tightened down.
I also had a problem fitting the Y axis timing belt onto the base because the grove was too tight. I had to use my Dremel to make the grove wider so the belt would fit. I also used the included zip ties to ensure it was tight. Haven't had a problem with it. There is no timing belt tensioner, so it has to be tight the first time otherwise there will be slack. I might try and print some type of tensioner to add but It hasn't been a problem yet.
I would recommend that you read through all of the reviews on Amazon since there is a lot of good insight and solutions to common problems. Thats how I knew to make sure the tension belts were as tight as possible right off the bat so I didn't have to go back to tighten them.
Some Artists are able to work with engineers / designers to create beautiful product.
Assuming the engineer creates a workable design first. It can then be augmented.
What do you build in Solidworks? I used the heck out of it on my last job in the silicon forest.
Me? I design embedded electronics systems. In a nutshell, I cram computers and other gear into cramped metal boxes for a living.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gruff
I use SolidWorks "backwards" for the most part... modelling existing objects and using the models to see if they will fit together in close proximity. If they do fit, then I can build my design -- if not, well it's back to the drawing board.
Occasionally I use SolidWorks to create simple new objects (typically sheet metal parts or early "artist impression" type visuals for conceptual purposes).
I love SolidWorks for prototyping -- just sketch it real fast and fire it by email at my favourite subcontractor and wait a day or two for a quote. It's so easy.
SW rules! :)
Here is an example when the 3D printer comes in very useful if you have one handy :)
Not long ago I installed a bathtub door, and one of the plastic things broke while I installed the door. So I spent about 20 minutes to design a replacement part in Sketchup, and another ~20 minutes to 3D print it, and it fitted perfectly on the first try!
I posted the thing on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:986008
The replacement KIT for the thing is $24 USD, plus shipping? but I fixed it for an equivalent of less than a dollar
Kids play compared to what NASA is doing with theirs - http://3dprint.com/92121/nasa-3d-print-turbopump
But I also doubt they are using a sub $1000 desktop version.
-tg
While that's the most boring and mundane thing to make, it's probably the most awesome use of a 3D printer! :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by CVMichael
Got my printer working again. Turns out the extruder was just clogged. Might pick up a few on amazon ($12 bucks for 5) then I can just keep several on hand. I can use one while cleaning the others.
Its also way too hot to be in my garage watching my printer. So naturally I setup an IP camera so I can watch from inside the house :D
http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...PrinterCam.png
Nice! What were you printing there?
If the extruder gets clogged that means it's not calibrated property. Mine got clogged often at the beginning also, until I figured out how to calibrate it properly. It's been a few months since last time it got clogged.
I *think* I have it calibrated correctly now.
I ended up taking apart the Z axis (just the vertical bars + screws) and made sure it was all level. Then I lowered the bed to make it even at all 4 corners, making sure that all the screws were taught. From there I then went corner to corner making sure that the extruder tip was level all the way around.
I was not sure exactly how close the tip should be to the bed? should it be touching or about a mm above?
I am currently printing a RPi Case :D
Welp. I went to check on it and found out that the two screws holding the Y Axis timing belt to the heating plate came loose and almost fell off. That cause my print to get messed up. I tried to tighten them while it was still working and i think that caused more problems...
http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4903.jpg
http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...8/IMG_4902.jpg
Here's how I calibrate my printer:Quote:
Originally Posted by dclamp
First, I make sure all corners are the same level, I use a piece of paper and I insert it between the nozzle and the glass, and move it a little bit. If it goes in too hard, then it's too close, and if it's too easy, then too far, so I go by the feel of it.
Next, I print a square that is approximately 1 cm smaller than my bed size. The square has only one layer, and is made up of 2 lines on each side. Now I go by how much the line (plastic) is squished. If it's not squished enough, then the 2 lines don't touch and they separate when I remove it from the bed. It's too close when the plastic is too thin / too squished. Note: if it's too close, it will probably clog the extruder.
It's strange that the screws got loose (that would be a really bad design), maybe you should have used nyloc nut instead?Quote:
Originally Posted by dclamp
By the way, on my printer ALL the nut are nyloc...
None of the nuts on mine are nyloc! I added a secondary nut to secure them. I might go back and add Loctite (Threadlock) to secure all the nuts and screws.
Nothing else has come loose though. I am going to have to calibrate it again since i had to take the heating plate off... and its WAY too hot outside to fiddle around with it now... Guess I will do it later! :(
After I explained in my previous post on how to calibrate it, I thought to do a calibration print test to show you "how it should be", and instead I discovered that my printer somehow got de-calibrated :)
So I went through my usual method of calibrating it, and I cut a corner of each print as I was testing, to show you how it looks like:
Attachment 129765
The first print shows when the nozzle is too far from the print bed; the lines don't stick to each other, and also don't stick to the print bed. The middle one is the calibrated print, and the last one is when the nozzle is too close to the print bed, and it is too squished.
When all 4 corners look like the middle print then your printer is calibrated.
Awesome. Thanks CV. I will do a proper calibration test tomorrow, or maybe late tonight when its not so hot! Thanks for the examples.
Ok so my first real "big" print. A Raspberry Pi case. It looked good at first then when it finished, the walls could have been a little neater. I had to push hard to get the pi into the case because the wall was not straight. I also had to really work the lid on because the walls were off.
Any idea what is causing this CV?
http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...9/IMG_5065.jpg
http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...9/IMG_5064.jpg
http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...9/IMG_5066.jpg
http://blog.dylansweaza.com/wp-conte...9/IMG_5071.jpg
Hi Dylan,
Can you post the link where you got the design from? (so I can see how it's supposed to print)
[Edit] Also, what slicer are you using? (this is probably because of slicer settings)
Here is the thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29263
And I used Cura
I sliced it and then saved the GCode to a SD card, then printed from SD.
I am pretty sure the problem is in the slicer settings, I don't think it's one setting... it's probably a combination of things. The legs seem to be printed OK, and problems appear when something changes, then everything gets shifted... weird... I have seen that before, even on my printer too, but not that dramatic. I can't tell you what to change because I never used Cura before.
The resolution of the print is pretty bad, so that's maybe because you set the nozzle size wrong entered in the settings? or the layer height wrong? If the nozzle size is 0.4 mm, then your highest layer height should be 0.3 mm. This is because the plastic needs to be squished a little bit. If you set the layer height smaller, then your printer needs to be calibrated very well, so don't do that yet...
Also measure your filament size in couple of places with a digital caliper, make an average, and enter the value in the slicer, it looks like it extrudes too much plastic.
Also, try a different slicer... just to compare results...
The filament is 1.75mm. I don't remember changing the nozzle size. I will have to check everything when I get home and try for another print.
What slicer do you recommend? I have heard of Slic3r.
There is a difference between how the filament is supposed to be, and actual... My filament I supposed to be 3 mm, but when I measure it, it is actually 2.9 mm (on average), it actually varies between 2.85 and 2.95 mm.
It makes a small difference, but sometimes noticeable.
But it makes a very big difference if the nozzle size is wrong in the slicer. For example when I tried to 3D print using Slic3r, the default there was 0.5 mm and when I printed it was very ugly print, and it took me a while to figure it out. The nozzle size on my printer is 0.4 mm.
Another slicer that I tried was KISSlicer, and I got pretty good results, but still not to my liking.
The slicer that I started with, and still use it after I tried Slic3r and KISSlicer, is Skeinforge. This is an old slicer, it's very slow!! It takes minutes to slice and generate the G code, but I got used to it, and I get my prints looking good. It is probably the slicer that is the most difficult to lean!! the interface is very basic, pages and pages of settings, nothing fancy.... It is written in Python, so you have to install Python first. Now I see that they have a "Portable Skeinforge", just found out about it :)
I would love to get into 3D printing, but where I live right now, I just don't have the space for it.
I should try and look for nearby places that have 3D Printers. Can't imagine what I'd print out, except a clumsy attempt at a Sega MegaDrive case for my Raspberry Pi(s).
Thats the only thing I have printed so far. But I intend do us it to print miscellaneous parts for my bar project. brackets, PCB, and component holders. Should be interesting.
Seriously? you just need an empty table, for the printer, and maybe some boxes (to put under the table) for the spools of plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by kregg
There are so many things that you can 3D Print! Just go on Thingiverse and search for a few things. I got the printer in February this year, and I printed hundreds of things / (pieces of things...). The folder with my 3D Printing stuff has 650 files, and 900 MBytes, that's only Sketchup files, STLs, and G code files. This doesn't mean I 3D printed 650 thing... many files are versions of the same thing, and there are also files that I never got to print. But I probably 3D printed at least 50 things... For example the train tracks are like 20 separate pieces (but that is one "thing")
For example this is the last thing I 3D Printed: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:157145 :)
and this for my son: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:157988
Now I am working on making some custom LEGO parts. I am testing with a 2 by 4 piece of lego, when I get that to fit exactly with real LEGO pieces, then I will make custom ones.
I am very close:
Attachment 130131
The yellow piece is 3D printed, the rest are real LEGO. The problem is that when I insert a real LEGO on top of the 3D printed one, it does not go all the way in... The bottom side of the 3D printed one fits perfectly on real LEGO.
Here is another thing that I started on, but don't find the time to finish:
Attachment 130133
That is the beginning of an omni wheel robot that is 100% designed by me :) The "brains" will be a Raspberry PI
Anywyas... there are tons and tons of things that I want to 3D print, but don't have enough TIME to do everything I want!! I WANT MORE TIME !!!!!!
The upcoming 4D printer introduces TIME - you are in luck.
Start saving now!
That's funny :D I actually know what you are talking about :)Quote:
Originally Posted by szlamany
Yes, hopefully, soon they will make affordable and faster 3D printers. I know they have faster ones, but not affordable yet :(
Any updates? did you manage to calibrate your printer?Quote:
Originally Posted by dclamp
If you have problems, maybe I can help?
By the way, I did some research into Cura, and found that the backend of it is actually an improved version of the Skeinforge slicer... So I want to switch to Cura, since the settings are very similar to Skeinforge.
I calibrated the print bed again, but haven't had an opportunity to calibrate the software. I will be playing around with it this weekend to make sure its working ok.
Check out my latest creation: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1119885
Attachment 132277
Took me a few days to design it, and about 25 hours of total 3D printing time.
The base (the part that gets mounted on the wall) takes about 2 hours to print, and it needs 2 pieces, so 4 hours.
The cover of the base takes about 5 hours and a half each, so 11 hours.
The green parts takes about 15 minutes each, and it needs 8 pieces, so about 2 hours
Finally, the outside cover, takes about 2 hours to print, and it needs 4 pieces, so another 8 hours
After that you have to trim some of the excess plastic, and glue some of the parts together. From start to finish took me a week :eek: :cool:
Cool,
So if you made $20.00 (US) an hour you'd have to charge $1,600.00 plus consumables for it. :D
Soooo, when you gonna start mass production?Quote:
From start to finish took me a week
Well, it took me a week from start to finish because I have a full time job, so I worked on it after my day job...
For mass production, it would be nice if I could have my own warehouse, and have a few hundred 3D printers, and of course a few more people to help me. Setting up the printer also takes some time.
But with one printer (in my living room), I can do things for myself easily. For someone else, I would charge a little extra just to make it worthwhile (for the time I spend on it also). So for this bathroom light, I would charge $100. So your better to just buy a regular bathroom light... Unless you want to personalize it, I don't see the point to 3D print it.
This is why I think it's better for everyone to just get their own 3D printer (just as we have printer for paper), and design and 3D print your own things.
3D printers are already becoming very cheap, on HobbyKing you can get a decent 3D Printer for $300: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._Printers.html (there are even cheaper ones, but I don't think they are good quality)
By the way... There are also websites where you can submit the 3D object, 3D print it, and ship it.
Also, there are websites where you can search for people that have 3D printers, and you can go pick it up, like this: https://www.3dhubs.com/
That is why I think that the current state of 3D printing is best used for prototyping product.
Like any good manufacturing engineer one needs to re-design the prototype for ease of manufacturing and lowering cost.
If you already have a CAD file you used for 3D printing that can be pulled into a decent solid modeling program and
tweeked to be die cast. Production time and cost plummet after that.
It's been a while... did you get your printer to work?Quote:
Originally Posted by dclamp
Lately I am doing research into making my own SLA 3D Printer. Many people already have done it with very cheap parts. Actually the most expensive parts (that they usually don't include in the parts list) is the DLP projector, and the resign for 3D printing.
Some SLA 3D printers use LASERs, but it's much more difficult to make one and they are very slow. The new SLA 3D printers use DLP projectors, and those 3D printers are really easy to make.
If you use an old style projector (with a light bulb), then you have to remove the UV filter, and color filters, and you are good to go. If you are using LED projector, then you have to replace the LED with a UV LED, and that is not as easy to do...
The down side of projector with light bulb is that the light bulb has a very short life, and the projector itself is big. LED projectors last much longer, they are small, but the original LED does not emit UV light at all, so the LED has to be replaced with a UV LED.
The reason why many are making SLA 3D printers, is because it's really easy to make, it has only one axis (up/down), and everything else is static. SLA 3D printers can print really small parts, check this out: http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum...php?f=7&t=3812 Awesome stuff!
Here is a forum specifically for building your own SLA:
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/
Here is examples of DIY SLA 3D Printers:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Litt...nder-500-proj/
or
https://3dprint.com/72462/instructab...imera-dlp-sla/
The cheapest resign I found is this (1 liter for $55):
https://makerjuice.com/
I am still looking for a good LED projector, I found pretty cheap ones, but I worry about their quality:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7000-Lumens-...-/111995464484
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3000-Lumens-...-/191610090490
Here's how I plan to make my SLA 3D printer:
A Raspberry PI (2 or 3) to slice the STL object, and for video output to plug in the Projector. The Raspberry PI can also be connected to stepper motor driver to move the tray up/down. I will use my current 3D printer to print the parts to hold everything together. I need to get linear rails (but anything that is straight will do), threaded rods I already have, stepper motors I already have. I need a get a LED projector and a UV LED, and do the switch to use the UV LED, hopefully I can do it.
Someone already did the same thing: http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum...php?f=3&t=3772 -> http://www.nanodlp.com/download/
What do you guys think? who's with me? lets make an SLA 3D printer! and share ideas!
Wow, you guys are boring!
3D printers are too small so you are always limited to developing small items. :(
Yes and No...Quote:
Originally Posted by RobDog888
My 3D printer is 20cm x 20cm x 20cm (20 cm cube). So far only one time I needed to print bigger, and in cases like that, you can always split the object in parts, and then glue or use screws, or you can even fit together by force/friction.
For example I designed a boat that is 52 cm long, I split the hull in 3 parts:
Attachment 138791
This is how it looks like 3D printed, I did not glue the parts together because I have to re-print the bottom section. (I printed it at too high temperature, and it cracked in multiple places)
Attachment 138789
Another example, this quad-copter that I designed and 3D printed: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:748749
From motor to motor, there is 37 cm, but all the parts fitted with spare room on my 3D printer.
When you design something for 3D printing, you always have to think how to rotate & position the object, and how you have to split the object in parts so that you can print it successfully. For example, it's best if you always have a flat surface. But if you don't, you can split it in half to have that flat surface, or there is always the option to enable "support", this will tell the printer to print something (like a grid), so that you can print your object on top of it.
As I said before, very rarely you need to print something bigger than 20cm cube. So far, the 20cm cube size was good enough for me, and I 3D printed quite a lot of things
only because you're thinking small...Quote:
Originally Posted by RobDog888
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...ng%20a%20house
-tg
Close enough I guess lolQuote:
Originally Posted by techgnome
I want to 3D print a wheel for my car :D But not in plastic as it would be too weak
At Maker's Fair last year in Detroit, they had printer which was a good few feet (maybe 10?) high. They had made chairs, trash cans (!) and a few other items. They had it for sale, and they would ship it to you...can't recall the price.Quote:
Originally Posted by RobDog888
The problem with a large print surface is the print bed temperature, and enclosure. Depending on the material you need to print with (PLA, ABS, Nylon, PET, flexible, etc.), some materials don't really need a heated bed, but for others is a must. For example PLA can be printed without a heated bed, but for ABS it is almost impossible to print without a heated bed. ABS is very sensitive to temperature changes. The printed bed has to be at least 100 degree Celsius(I print ABS at 120 degree Celsius), and the nozzle has to be at least 230 degree Celsius. The printer has to be enclosed in a case because any cold breeze with cause the object to shrink rapidly and the object will crack. That's why I have to re-print the bottom section of my boat (in my previous post).
So.. the bigger the 3D printer the more difficult it is to control the print bed temperature, and ambient temperature. So big printers most likely cannot print with ABS plastic.
PLA does not have the shrinking problem with temperature changes, so you don't need a heated printed bed (I still print at 70 degree Celsius so that it sticks better), and you don't need an enclosed 3D printer because temperature changes don't affect it that much.
So printers that have a large print surface, most likely they print only in PLA (or materials with very low shrinkage coefficient)
Check this out to see how many different filaments are available:
http://nicklievendag.com/filament-guide/
Great info guys!
I remember reading that they also have carbon fiber filiment? Only found this one blend so far:
http://nicklievendag.com/wp-content/...-xt-cf20-4.jpg
Nice! I saw a YouTube video a while ago about carbon fiber filament, I don't think it was out at that time.
I found the website where they sell it: http://learn.colorfabb.com/colorfabb-xt-cf20/
They say that the filament erodes the nozzle (the thing that melts the plastic), and I also found they have a "value pack" with the filament together with a hardened steel nozzle:D
http://colorfabb.com/xt-cf20-e3d-hardened-steel-set
My latest upgrade to my 3D printer was a E3D-v6 hotend, so this fits perfectly on my 3D printer :)
I'm working on a 3D printer that prints a 4D printer.
Well - it's about time!
Speaking of 4D printing....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78I-...pLaHONfSYCX0RH
That's pretty cool.
-tg
What have you guys been up to? it's been more than a year!
I've been working on a big 3D printer. It's 400x400x400 mm, very fast printer! Right now it prints in one color, but I will add a diamond extruder (that's just the name of it, it's actually made of copper), so I will be able to print in 3 colors (or materials). It auto calibrates with a touch sensor, this is the best part! calibration is difficult and time consuming on most printers. It has a 1200 watts silicone heater for the printing bed, it heats up in just a few seconds. 2 power supplies, one for 12V and another for 24V (motors are on 24V). In front, there is a Raspberry PI with a wide angle camera that takes a picture every second or 2, and when printing is done, I can make a time lapse movie from the images (I will upload a timelapse later if anyone wants to see).
I will also enclose the printer with transparent acrylic sheets, for printing materials sensitive to temperature changes (like ABS for example)
I spent about 4 to 5 months to build it, and over $2,000.
The design is 100% made by me, I did not copy anything from anyone.
I still have to work on it a little to organize the electronics on the back of it, and hide those wires somehow.
Here are some pics:
Attachment 152065
Attachment 152067
Attachment 152075
That is a thing of beauty! Great work!
I would love to see a time lapse video of this machine in action!
This is the only time lapse I have so far. As I 3D print more stuff, of course I will make more time lapses.
Here it was printing a part for itself. It's actually the part that is holding the touch sensor (BL Touch). The original part was pushing the extruder fan too much down, and the sensor itself was too much up. I used some washers to lower the sensor. But with the new design of the part, now everything is the way it's supposed to be :)
In this video it was taking pictures every second, then I converted about 4,000 images to 24 frames / second movie:
https://youtu.be/C8WcyL8OSA0
https://youtu.be/C8WcyL8OSA0
I replaced the original Raspberry PI camera with a wide angle 160 degree camera, fisheye lens, so future time lapses will show the entire printing surface.
TGQuote:
Originally Posted by techgnome
Cool indeed.
Just my luck, I guess .. when I just ran the link, it started with an ad for Poo Pourri.
It starts with a cute chick sitting on a loo.
At first, I didn't realize it was an ad and figured you had "poo'ed" us.
But then I noticed the ad timer winding down and the "Skip this ad" option.
Nonetheless, I actually watched the entire 2-minute ad.
It is, sadly, (ahem) 4th-D dependent. When I ran the link a second time, a different ad came up.
What would be really cool would be to find a link to the poo-ad.
EDIT-1
CV .. cool, too, but what the hey did you 3D?
EDIT-2
CV .. oops, you already told us.
I missed that bit at first, but just took the time to read the entire thread.
This is truly serious stuff ..
(Well, aside from Bonker and SZ, which is initially as far back as I read .. ;))
Spoo
Here is another time lapse.
The whole print took about 4 hours an 20 minutes, but unfortunately the Raspberry PI ran out of disk space when the print was about 75%
This was recorded with my new wide angle camera
https://youtu.be/3JydZqwuVB4
https://youtu.be/3JydZqwuVB4
This is an extension for my shower. The original is too close to the wall, so with this 3D print, I can stick the shower head further. The shower is a Moen magnetix
Attachment 152167
Again - very nice. I see that people are monetizing these printers now as well - have you considered making income from production of whatever you can?
btw - I had to dig hard to find the video link - not visible in the post to me, at any rate. I had to REPLY WITH QUOTE to find it...
Really? The video is not embedded in the post? I edited the 2 posts, and put the link to the videos also...
As for monetising... well, now I have 2 printers (the old one that I have since Feb 2015, and the big one I just built). The problem is that they are noisy. It does not bother us that much if it prints for an hour or 2 every few days, but if it would print constantly, everyone in the house would go crazy! If I had a house, with a basement, or at least another room dedicated for 3D printing... but right now everything is in the living room, it takes a lot of space, and it's noisy.
The way I am trying to make money with it: My father's company is interested to build 3D printers, but they know nothing about them. I am trying to finish my big 3D printer, and take it there for a few days to teach them, and try to figure out how to make more of them, and sell them. But of course it has to look professional, reliable, and to have something that you cannot find "out there" with the same price... it's a long way to go.. but hopefully we can make some money this way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooman
I'd sat THAT video is embedded.
BRAVO Victor
From 3D printing to poop; not happy with the direction this thread turned to.
But anyways, here's my latest update:
I made a DIY touch probe, and a program in C++ to control my 3D printer, and now I can scan objects into 3D.
To test, I scanned a $2 coin, here's how the scan turned out:
Attachment 164897
I scanned the coin in a 0.15mm grid, about 42,000 points, and it took about 8 hours to run
Here's my printer in action:
https://youtu.be/9lPobTaEvIE
https://youtu.be/9lPobTaEvIE
I also uploaded the 3D scan on Thingiverse if anyone wants to check it out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366129
Hi @CVMichel, i am into 3D printer, robotics and others in VB6 but i am will be make more in few months, not now, i am need time, but, a good thing i think, is a 3DGraphicsLibrary PureVB6 to help in 3D projects.
if you know some library in pureVB6 or like help in port other library to vb6 i am like help in this project.
i am have 3d printer but is in a box, never used, i am making my apps first.
i think colaboratives threads for projects of Robotics, 3d, cnc, etc in vb6 is a good idea.
it is a new age of Makers!